Which is harder, Mera Peak or Island Peak Climbing?

Anil Lamsal
Updated on January 17, 2025

Mera Peak Cimbing and Island Peak climbing in Nepal is two of the best peak climbing in Nepal which has caught eyes of many mountaineers worldwide. Though,climbing peaks over 6000 meters are not an easy venture, each of these peaks has its difficulty and rewards. In this blog, we have given a roughly guide about how challenging is it to climb these two popular climbing peaks of Nepal. Mera Peak is a straightfoward climb which requires minimum technical climbing skill but more of a physical effort. Whereas, Island Peak Climbing is more technical than the Mera Peak which demands basic mountaineering skill along with sound physical condition. Let us mae it clear for you, how strenous these peaks are and how can you overcome the challanges you may face during the peak climbing in Nepal. 

Mera Peak Climbing Vs Island Peak Climbing in a Brief

If you are a climbing enthusiast, you may wonder which is harder, climbing Mera Peak or Island Peak in Nepal. These two trekking peaks are undoubtedly Nepal's most popular peak climbing routes in recent times. Both of these peaks are located in the Khumbu Region of Everest. Also, Mera and Island Peak climbing are the best choices for beginners to begin their mountaineering journey. Therefore, they might get confused about which is harder to climb between Mera and Island Peak.

Well, without any delay, let's make it easy for novice climbers through this guide about the difficulty level of both peaks. While both trekking peaks don’t need particular mountaineering skills, climbers may find some differences during the summit. Although, Mera Peak Climbing in Nepal is an edge ahead of Island Peak in terms of easier to climb. Whereas, Island Peak Climbing in Nepal delivers a thrilling and adventurous journey to the top. It is up to the climbers which peak they prefer according to their fitness and choices.

Key Facts about Mera and Island Peak

Mera Peak consists of three major summits, Mera North, Mera South, and Mera Central. Among these three, Mera Central (6461m) is the easiest and most popular among climbers. This Mera Central Peak was first climbed in 1953.

Likewise, Island Peak (6189m) is also known as Imja Tse, which was named in 1951 AD and climbed for the first time by Sherpas.

Which peak is easy to Climb between Mera Peak and Island Peak?

Relatively, climbing Mera Peak is easier than climbing Island Peak. Mera Peak is a straightforward summit that is ideal for climbers with past high-altitude trekking experience. Moreover, it doesn’t require top mountaineering skills. Also, the altitude of Mera Peak is higher than Island Peak. But, due to the steep ice route and several challenging phases of the Island Peak, it is more difficult to climb it. On the contrary, Mera Peak involves fewer challenging sections. Furthermore, Island Peak is harder to climb because of its narrow rocky trail, icefalls, and glacial climb to the top.

Well, though Mera Peak is slightly ahead in terms of easy climb, we suggest climbers not take this misconception easily. Every trip into the Himalayas has its challenges. Both peak climbing needs strong willpower, dedication, and effort for a successful summit. Moreover, Preparation for Peak Climbing in Nepal is very vital.

Difficulty Level of Peaks

Mera Peak

Island Peak

Physical

Challenging

Very Challenging

Technical

Easy

Moderate to Challenging

Grading

Peu Difficile

Peu Difficile Plus

Duration and Distance of Mera Peak Climbing

The total duration of the Mera Peak Climb takes around 15-17 days depending on the itinerary, condition of climbers, and other factors. The duration is also one of the aspects of the difficulty level of peak climbing. More duration in the high altitude of Mera Peak can make it difficult for climbers to reach the summit. Further, the total distance Mera Peak Climbing Route is around 125 KM.

Duration and Distance of Island Peak Climbing

The duration of the Island Peak Expedition is somewhat similar to Mera. It takes somewhere between 1-18 days for the whole journey. However, if you wish to do Island Peak Climbing with EBC then it takes around 20 days. With its climbing route involving more steep sections and on top of that more days at the high altitude of this peak is challenging. Lastly, the total distance covered by this peak climbing route from Lukla is approx. 130 KM.

Altitude Sickness and its Difficulty during the Mera and Island Peak Expedition

Climbing peaks over 6000 meters give you an experience of altitude sickness because of the thin oxygen level. Even high-altitude trekking like EBC Trek or ABC Trek, travelers may feel the symptoms of altitude sickness in the Himalayas. Both the Mera and Island Peak can make you the victim of altitude sickness, which is the top factor of climbing difficulty level. Sickness can cause vomiting, headache, dizziness, nausea, loss of appetite, lack of sleep, fatigue, etc. which makes climber hard to summit the peak.

Therefore, to prevent altitude sickness as much as you can, preparation, acclimatization, and a balanced diet during the entire trip are necessary. Also, our Mera Peak Climbing Itinerary and Island Peak Climbing Itinerary have enough acclimatization days in between the trekking schedule.

How to Prepare for the Peak Climbing in Nepal?

Climbing preparation for both Mera and Island Peak plays a crucial role in your achievement. These expeditions are above 6000 meters which have several scenarios regarding the challenges. However, the process of preparation for these peaks is almost similar. So, how to prepare for peak climbing in Nepal?

  • Train your body for 2-4 months before the climbing date period.
  • Engage in physical training like gym, weight lifting, cardio, running, trekking, etc.
  • Forecast the best time for the climbing peaks in Nepal.
  • Get quality travel insurance that covers your altitude sickness, recuse facility, medical expenses, and all kinds of injuries & losses.
  • Pick the right Mera Peak Itinerary and Island Peak climbing Itinerary that suits your time and duration.
  • Choose the best trekking and climbing agency in Nepal. Overland Trek Nepal is a registered trekking agency in Nepal that organizes trekking and peak climbing in Nepal.

FAQs of Mera Peak and Island Peak

When is the best time to climb Mera Peak Nepal?

The best time to climb Mera Peak in Nepal is in spring and autumn. Both seasons reward with stunning views of peaks, favorable weather, and mild temperatures.

Which is the best time to do Island Peak Climbing?

The prime time to climb Island Peak in Nepal is from March to May and September to November. During these months, you can enjoy mountain views under blue skies, perfect weather, and good climbing conditions.

What is the cost of Mera Peak Climbing?

The total Mera Peak Climbing Cost starts from USD 2899 and can reach up to USD 4000 per person depending on the climbing service. 

Is Island Peak easy to Climb?

Climbing Island Peak is a bit challenging because of it's technical section and glacial walks duirng the summit push. Climbers must have a basic mountaineering skill to do this expedition. 

How fit I should be to climb Mera Peak? 

You must be physically fit, well trained for 4-5 months, mentally prepared, and engage in high-altitude trekking for few times before the expedition. 

Can I do both Mera and Island Peak Climbing in Nepal?

Yes, with excellent physical effort and commitment, you can do both Mera and Island Peak climbing in Nepal via Amphu Laptcha Pass. 

Conclusion of difficuly level difference between Mera Peak and Island Peak

Lastly, whether you are climbing Mera Peak or Island Peak, without proper preparation it will be always difficult to climb any of these peaks. However, if you are in good state physically and mentally with basic climbing skill, you can easily stand at the top of any trekking peaks of Nepal. Overland Trek Nepal is here to assist you in climbing to the highest peaks of Nepal and let you create the history of your life time. Our climbing experts and staff members have been guiding to these peaks for last 10-12 years with vast experience. If your next outdoor venture is one of these peaks, Mera or Island, feel free to contact us via email or What's App at +9779851138871, we will create a plan that you will never forget in your life. 

Also check out:Lobuche Peak Climbing in Nepal


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