If you are a climber and thinking about which is the hardest mountain to climb in Nepal? Then, this blog provides you with enough information about mountain climbing in Nepal. Known as the “Land of the Himalayas”, Nepal has roughly 1300 snow peaks. Travelers worldwide visit Nepal for several activities like Trekking in Nepal, Expeditions, and tours. Nevertheless, trekking and mountain climbing are more famous among the people.
Generally, mountains above 8000 meters are technically difficult to climb. However, height is not the only factor that makes climbing difficult. Other major challenges include the climbing route, avalanches, snowfalls, weather factors, death rates, etc. Therefore, it requires a lot of courage, strength, endurance, and climbing skills.
Overland Trek Nepal presents you with the hardest mountain climbing in Nepal. The mountains we mention below are technically difficult to overcome. Hence, stick with us and we will provide you answer to, “Which is the hardest mountain to climb in Nepal?”
Annapurna I
Climbing Facts:
Region: Annapurna
Altitude: 8091 meters
Best Time: Spring and Autumn
Duration: 40-50 Days
Climbing the 10th highest peak, Annapurna I is one of the hardest mountains climbing in Nepal. Because of the high fatality rate and technical difficulty, only a few climbers can summit this peak. It lies in the northeast part of the Himalayan range at an elevation of 8091 meters. Similarly, the time for the expedition, its height, and North-West Face while ascending are the challenges. Hence, this mountain is not for beginner climbers. In addition, the ascent is done in 3 camps following the route of West Face and Northwest Ridge. Lastly, the climbing cost of Annapurna I starts from $13000-18000.
Note: Annapurna Base Camp Trek is a good option for beginners to start the Mountaineering journey.
Mt. Everest
Climbing Facts:
Region: Everest
Altitude: 8848.86 meters
Best time: Spring and Autumn
Duration: 50-60 Days
The tallest peak in the world, Mt. Everest, is popular among climbers globally. It presents unique challenges than other mountains. Climbers have to face severe weather, icefalls, glaciers, rocky sections, and a scary “Death Zone” above 8000 meters. Likew1ise, technical challenges like the Khumbu Icefall between ABC and Camp I, Hillary’s step, and the icy slope after Camp III. Also, standing on the top of the world is a dream adventure for many adventure seekers around the globe. The first camp of this expedition is set after Trekking to Everest Base Camp. Then, from here it takes another 3-4 camps before summiting at the top of the world. So, make your next trip to Mt. Everest, which is the hardest mountain to climb in Nepal. It costs around $50000-$100000 to summit this mountain.
Mt. Kanchenjunga
Climbing Facts:
Region: Kanchenjunga
Altitude: 8586 meters
Best Time: Spring and Autumn
Duration: 50-65 Days
The third-highest mountain in the world, Mt. Kanchenjunga lies in the Nepal-Sikkim Border. Its regular avalanche, death rate, high altitude, and technical route are the difficulties of this mountain. You must have climbing skills and strategies while crossing technical parts. Moreover, always be ready to face sudden weather changes. Furthermore, most of the sections of this peak are filled with terrain and glaciers. So, it takes around 10-11 weeks to complete this ascent. Lastly, Kanchenjunga Expedition costs around $7900-$1500.
Ama Dablam Expedition
Climbing Facts:
Region: Everest Region
Altitude: 6812 meters
Best time: Autumn and Spring
Duration: 40-50 Days
Mt. Ama Dablam is another amazing peak yet the hardest mountain climbing in Nepal. It lies in the Everest Region of Nepal and stands tall at 6812 meters. It falls under the Grade TD in difficulties level. The icy cliffs and snowy slopes along the route make this mountain climbing challenging. Similarly, the route via South-West Ridge through ice and rocky terrain is most difficult. However, the views from the top are spectacular. Mt. Ama Dablam Summit delivers gigantic mountain views like Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Island Peak, and Mera Peak. In conclusion, the cost of Ama Dablam Ascent starts from $7500-10000, based on the service you prefer.
Singu Chuli Peak
Climbing Facts:
Region: Annapurna
Altitude: 6501 meters
Best Time: Autumn and Spring
Duration: 20-30 Days
Another interesting and technically difficult mountain to climb is Singu Chuli Peak. It lies in the center of the Annapurna Range at 6501 meters. The technical section of this peak requires some experience and skill to get through. Climbing the vertical wall to reach the top is challenging. However, the summit delivers magnificent views of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I, Annapurna II, Himchuli, and many others.
Difference between Mountain climbing and Peak climbing in Nepal
Mountain climbing also known as Expedition is different from Peak Climbing. Both the activities involved climbing the snow peaks but there are few differences among them. Mt. Expedition is climbing the peaks above 8000 meters. Whereas, peak climbing ascends above 6000-7500 meters. Similarly, an expedition takes 40-50 days to complete the journey. However, peak climbing takes between 25-30 days for a successful summit. It means Peak climbing in Nepal is easier and shorter than an expedition.
Top 5 Mt. Expeditions in Nepal:
- Mt. Everest Expedition
- Annapurna I
- Ama Dablam
- Mt. Manaslu Expedition
- Mt. Kanchenjunga
Top 5 Peak Climbing in Nepal
- Island Peak climbing
- Pisang Peak Climbing
- Mera Peak climbing
- Lobuche Peak Climbing
- Chulu West Peak Climbing
Preparation for the hardest mountain climbing in Nepal
Generally, climbing the high-altitude mountains is technically difficult. However, you need accurate skills, physical condition, and mental health for a successful summit. Some of the training you can perform before expeditions are:
- Endurance training like swimming, mountain biking, running, jogging, etc.
- Similarly, do some strength training and weight lifting.
- Moreover, Cardiovascular exercises like aerobic workouts are equally important.
- Master your climbing skills from basic to advanced.
- Also, climb some less technical mountains like Island Peak, Mera Peak, and Lobuche Peak.
- Learn to use climbing gear like ropes, ice-axe, harness, etc.
- In addition, get some quality climbing gear. It can be life-saving in high altitude.
Permits for mountain climbing in Nepal
A mountain climbing permit card is necessary to climb some of the tallest peaks in Nepal. The government of Nepal regulates activities like mountain climbing through the permit card system. It is also called a Royalty fee for foreigners to climb the mountain. Here, we have listed some famous mountains to climb in Nepal with their royalty fee:
| SN | Name of the Mountains | Spring | Autumn | Winter/Summer |
| 1. | Mt. Everest | $11000 | $5500 | $2750 |
| 2. | Kanchenjunga | $11000 | $5000 | $2500 |
| 3. | Lhotse Expedition | $$1800 | $900 | $450 |
| 4. | Mt. Makalu | $1800 | $900 | $450 |
| 5. | Annapurna I | $1800 | $900 | $450 |
| 6. | Ama Dablam | $400 | $400 | $200 |
| 7. | Singu Chuli Peak | $400 | $200 | $100 |
| 8. | Tukuche Peak | $400 | $200 | $100 |
| 9. | Island Peak | $400 | $200 | $100 |
| 10. | Mera Peak | $400 | $200 | $100 |
Apart from the permit card cost of mountain climbing in Nepal, you must pay Garbage deposit fees before climbing. It costs $4000 for Mt. Everest for the mountain garbage deposit fees. Similarly, for other peaks above 8000 meters costs $3000. Likewise, peaks above 7001 meters to 8000 meters cost $2000. In addition, mountains above 6500-7000 meters cost $ 1000. Lastly, mountain peaks less than 6500 meters cost $500 as a garbage deposit.
Note: The listed mountains are Nepal’s most popular and most climbed peaks. The permit fees for the mountains above 8000 meters are similar. Likewise, permit card costs of the mountain peaks above 7500 and 7000 meters are $600 and $500 respectively. Finally, a permit card for peak climbing in Nepal above 6500 meters costs $400.
FAQs
Which is the most difficult mountain to climb in Nepal?
Annapurna I and Ama Dablam are known as the most difficult mountain to climb in Nepal.
Is climbing Annapurna more difficult than Everest?
Some parts of the Annapurna are technically harder to climb than Everest. Moreover, the death rates of Annapurna are more than 35%.
How many days it takes to climb Mt. Everest?
It takes between 50-60 days to successfully climb the Mt. Everest.
What is the height of Mt. Everest?
The latest height of the Mt. Everest is 8848.86 meters.
Can I climb the mountains of Nepal without permit cards?
No, you must get climbing permit cards and deposit the garbage fees before climbing the mountains in Nepal.
Which is the best time to climb the mountains in Nepal?
Generally, the Autumn season is more popular and the perfect time to climb the mountains. However, the spring season is also considered the climbing period in Nepal.
Do I need a climbing guide for mountain climbing?
Yes, without a climbing guide, it is impossible to ascend any mountains in Nepal.
Can I climb mountains in Nepal without oxygen?
No, in reality, it is not possible to climb the mountain without oxygen. However, there are few records of peak climbing without oxygen in Nepal.
